Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Old Ugly - Shake Down Run Part 2: The New Acquisition
Monday, April 5, 2010
Old Ugly - Shake Down Run Part 1: A Grand Adventure
Sunday, April 4, 2010
The Resurrection of Old Ugly - The Clutch
Here's how the test drive went:
The truck is idling. I know it's warm because it had just been driven for an hour from the tri-cities. I put it into low, give it a tiny bit of throttle, and slowly (some could even say cautiously) let the clutch out... and let the clutch out some more... and keep letting the clutch out... further and further... further than seems possible... further than any engineer could have possibly thought was a good idea... and just when I think the thing is going to keep coming out until it traps my foot between the pedal and the bottom of the dash... I hit the end of the travel...
...and then, after a long and pregnant pause, the truck slowly, gradually begins to move. That's when I finally identify the smell I first smelled when the guy opened the hood. The distinct, metallic, sintered smell of burned clutch.
Out on the road, it was painful (and noxious) to drive it at all. Anything more than 1/4 throttle in top gear (3rd or 4th, depending on if you want to call ratio #1 granny or first - the button on the transmission calls it gear L) and the engine would rev up without any noticeable change in speed -- at all -- ever.
Each gear shift was accompanied by a sickening period of time in which the engine would suggest a speed to the transmission; the transmission in turn rejecting the engine's suggested speed and requesting that the engine resubmit it's speed request. The engine would then resubmit it's speed request using form SR-125All2. That speed request then being sent to the transmission speed request review board for review and approval. The speed request review board would want more information, and send a Speed Request Review Appraisal Inquiry form (QRN-282-454N) to the engine by registered mail. Upon receipt of the QRN-282-454N, the engine would have to provide copies of three forms of identifications, fill out line 27B-"place of manufacture", and submit oil samples and all maintenance records. Once the review board then had the necessary documentation, it would approve only a partial speed change. The engine and transmission, tired of all this bureaucracy, would settle their differences, agree on their own shaky middle ground, and finally the speed of the truck would start to change.
With the test drive over, and the truck now fully in my custody, the very first order of business was to fix the clutch! I took a quick look in the glove box. To my surprise, it actually had an original 1978 owner's manual. Let's see... clutch... clutch... clutch... Sure enough, there it was:
"Clutch adjustment should be checked and adjusted periodically as necessary to compensate for clutch facing wear. To check, depress pedal by hand until resistance is felt. Free travel should be approximately one to one and a half inches; if very little or no free travel is evident, clutch adjustment is required."-1978 Chevrolet Light Duty Truck (gasoline) owner's and driver's manual. p. 2-17
Right, so, first check free play. There is none. In fact, from what I can tell, the clutch isn't even half engaged when all the way out. It's a wonder the guy even made it from the Tri-Cities at all, and no wonder it smelled like burned clutch when he arrived. The last time I smelled that much clutch was the first time I went solo in my mom's Tauras SHO (a car which, incidentally, broke a half-shaft before wearing out its CV joints. I wonder how often that happens). So, it seemed, I was about to get a crash course in clutch adjustment.
Usually, when faced with a mechanical problem, I use the following patented "Mechanical Expert's Field Guide to All Repairs Automotive" flow chart.
a). Call my dad.
b). Poke around to see if anything is obvious.
c). Do a search on the internet.
d). Look in a service manual (if I have one).
Then, as an absolute worst case scenario, I;
e). Call my dad again.
f). Do another internet search.
g). Bang on the problem area with a wrench or other suitable tool.
h). See what the vehicle would go for on kelly blue book, nada, craigslist, and/or ebay.
i). Give up for a few days.
j). Spray it with WD40.
k). Consider reclassifying it as a parts vehicle.
l). Check to see if it's magically repaired itself.
m). Purchase a case of Vernors™ as a bargaining tool in my third attempt to bribe my Dad into helping me.
and finally, if absolutely all else fails:
n). Wait for my wife to start threatening to take it to someone who's actually qualified to repair it...
...at which point I revert back to a). and work my way down again.
On this day, because I was watching the kids, and because the weather was crummy (overcast), I skipped right to step c). and took to the internet.
Friday, March 19, 2010
The Resurrection of Old Ugly - The List
After acquiring our 1978 Chevy C30 1 ton truck, I thought it would be a good idea to take stock of the thing by making a list of everything I could find that was wrong with it. So, here goes:
1. It's ugly.
2. It's old.
3. It's broken.
I think that about covers it, but just for my own sake, I guess I'll expand a little on the third one:
The clutch doesn't work right.
The driver and passenger front doors don't latch well.
There's a pretty serious leak dripping off the front of the transmission.
The hood is kinked.
The left front fender is bashed in.
Both dually fenders are broken.
The speedometer doesn't work.
Neither does the tach.
The brake lights don't come on, but the flashers work, and so do the turn signals, so its not the bulbs.
The front seat upholstery is worn out, and the carpeting is house floor carpet.
The right mirror is missing, and it was torn out of the door at some point, probably when someone took out the dually fender.
The right side tail pipe is about to fall off.
The trim is mostly bent up, and what isn't bent is missing.
A few of the marker lights are burned out.
It squeaks when you turn the wheel or hit the brake.
The motor vibrates pretty bad when you rev it up.
The fan noise is really loud.
That's about all I can tell for now. I guess I should look at the bright side; it does start and move under its own power - for now.